The Chicken Burger

“The” Chicken Burger because this isn’t any old chicken burger, it’s a bit magnificent.

Comes from the ancient document below, carbon dated to the last century. Back in the 1990’s Richard Ehrlich had a column in the Guardian magazine when Matthew Fort edited the food section. I liked that era unlike the “Feast” of the current regime with Yotam “Ingredients” Ottolenghi and Perfect Felicity. Seemed a lot more straighforward.

Anyway, I particulary liked Richard Ehrlich the more so after we bought his book “The Lazy Cook” ISBN 0593 025962 Bantam Press 1993 which turned out to be more a book of techniques rather than recipes. All right then, it’s full of recipes but they are presented in the context of cooking techniques such as braising, flash roasting, à l’étuvée, charring, etc. Down-to-earth, simple, effective stuff. Still one of our most used cookery books and you can still get a copy for £3.57 delivered.

These burgers come not from the book but from the magazine dated July 30 1994. Wonder how many times I’ve made them since then?

So, as you can see, this burger is just bun, patty, onion, mushroom, bacon with a little mayo on the lightly toasted bun. It was pretty perfect anyway but the bun (another product of the 80% dough) made it extremely perfect. Not the soft, fluffy disintegrating bun that seems to have a brown painted skin rather than a crust, but a proper strong chewy bun that you need jaws to devour and with it’s own deep, long-matured flavour.

And, of course, the breadcrumbs in the burger are my very own Pain de Campagne as I’m sure you will have noticed.

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